Arriving in Jerusalem

Tuesday, on the way to Jerusalem we stopped at Beit Shean, an exciting antiquity excavation, comparable to Pompeii in scope. This former Roman city was also on the crossroads of the trade routes throughout the Middle East. The city boasts a day spa complete with steam baths and running water, a major thoroughfare flanked by exclusive shops, and a large amphitheatre. It will take several more decades to excavate the full site, to uncover additional mosaic floors, and expose buildings that came before. The city was eventually flattened by a 6.9 earthquake. Several of us walked up to the top of the tel to observe the commanding views and to see the city spread below.
On to Jerusalem. We entered the city from the East, not the most impressive side. We were expecting to stop along the way and walk into the city. We were initially disappointed to learn we would not be doing that. We did drive to Mount Scopus, the current site of Hebrew university, Jerusalem. Our buses parked, we walked to the overlook, shared a cup of wine, and repeated the Shehecheyanu. Stu touched the soil and felt Jerusalem. For two thousand years, since the time of the destruction of the temple, Jews have wanted to return to Jerusalem, and here we are, and here we will be for the next five days with our tour, and then for another 8 days when we return.
Jerusalem-First day
Hadassah Hospital resembles successful hospitals elsewhere, in a constant state of building turmoil. Wherever there is space between buildings, a new hole is being dug in preparation for expansion. Although Hadassah was seriously hurt by Madoff’s unscrupulous behavior, their plans for the new hospital tower continue thanks to donors, including our own Shirley and Bob Keaster. Our tour group
The Chagall windows adorn the top of the synagogue within the hospital. Dedicated in 1951 they are ensconced in the older part of the hospital. Each of the 12 windows represents one of the 12 tribes. Stu is a Levi, so that window was of great interest to us. We also think it’s the most attractive.
Today was a thoughtful day. We went from the hospital to the memorial cemetery, site of the graves of past prime ministers and head of states, as well as the fallen during Israel’s wars. The cemetery commands a view of the city and is surrounded by trees planted by the Jewish National Fund. Remember all those trees your parents and you have purchased through the years, here they are providing shelter and solace to our fallen heroes.
The final stop for the day was Yad Vashem—Israel’s Memorial to the Holocaust. Each of the memorials we have visited has been different in their presentation. This Memorial is historical in its coverage of the events leading to the holocaust, stories and artifacts from the holocaust period, the history of the liberation and the settlement of Jews in Israel. Of particular note to me was the side museum featuring the holocaust survivors in Israel. They were an industrious group who filled the cooperative villages and the Kibbutz. Another museum housed holocaust art. For Stu, of particular note, were the many young military personnel who were also visiting the museum. A visit and study of the holocaust is mandatory during military service. In addition, the final room of the main museum, photos of victims and books of information, presented in a circular cone shaped fashion reaching into infinity left a lasting impression. Yad Vashem was the most crowded of the many sites we have seen since we arrived in Israel. The holocaust is a central event in Jewish history and defines Israel and Jews around the world. We cannot understand, after reading names and seeing photos and film footage, how anyone can deny the events that have been so painfully recorded.
What should we learn from the experience of the holocaust? Should we learn how not to treat others, to be kind, fair to everyone, apply justice for all because justice was denied to us? Should we learn to take care of Jews first and foremost, and not worry about anyone else until our needs have been met? For Stu and I we understood, yet again, that no matter how we think of ourselves, in the eyes of the world we are Jews first; anti-Semitism continues throughout the world. The causes may vary, but the justification is whatever is handy at the moment. I also learned that we are one mighty group in spite of being decimated by one third during the holocaust alone; that we rise like the Phoenix, again and again and again.