Saturday, March 21, 2009

Jerusalem at Leisure & Motke Blum

We conclude our first trip to Jerusalem with our tour and some free time to wander on our own. This has been a very exhausting trip for many of us. Unfortunately, there's a virus on the tour bus that has hit us with bad colds, flue, laryngitis, and a case of pneumonia. The bus sometimes sounds like an infirmary. I am struggling with a cold and a severe case of laryngitis. Stu is enjoying my silence. After all, he always says that his next wife will be a mute. Well, for the past two days his dreams have been answered.

Friday morning was time to wander about the city. We began by delivering our excess luggage to the Barkai House at #9 Hulda ha-Neviah Street where we are renting a studio apartment upon our return to Jerusalem--after the tour departs for the states. Fortunately, we had a very patient taxi driver who stayed with us the entire time. We could never have found, even with the help of a map, this tiny one-way street, so narrow the driver could only open the door on one side of the cab. But, he was persistent and we did find the residence, although we didn't get in because the owner wasn't at home. In good faith, on the cell phone, she told us where the spare key to the courtyard was secreted and we managed to leave the luggage there. We only hope that we will find the residence again when we return.

Jerusalem is a series of hills, much more so than San Francisco. The city is located in the Judean hills and occupies the sides, the gullys, and the tops of the hills. Jerusalem is built on Jerusalem stone, which is everywhere. Unlike San Francisco which has streets roughly laid out in a grid pattern, there are few straight streets in Jerusalem, and those that are straight are generally very short--1 block or less. Streets can be one-way or two, this is not always determined by the width of the street. Parking is allowed or not, again not dependent upon the size of the street. Maps are flat, but the terrain is hilly thus it is difficult to decipher directions. We are sure that we will get to know the city much better when Stu and I spend 8 days wandering the streets, taking buses, checking taxi routes. We're looking forward to that adventure and to having more time to visit those places of interest, especially the Western Wall, that we have only touched upon.

After we dropped our luggage, we joined Susan and Joel wandering along King George street, stopping at the beautiful and luxurious King David Hotel. In and out of the many shops and art galleries, we saw exquisite Judaica in silver, contemporary Israeli artistic works, jewelry featuring Roman glass and Eilat stone. Then Susan and I followed signs down a steep hill in search of the Artists Quarter. More shops, galleries, more contemporary silver, and Mordecai Blum.

The elderly artist, Moitke Blum, invited us into his very tiny gallery for the modest price of 1 shekkel. He assured us he was only kidding, but enter we did. The gallery had his works everywhere, in every crevice, on racks, amidst the dust, and unsold paintings. Mostly what he had was his story, his laughter, and a wonderful piece I fell in love with immediately. What makes something art? I couldn't begin to respond except that I am attracted to art that connects emotionally--Moitke's piece did. I purchased a small digitally created original drawing, printed on glossy photo paper as a one of a kind. I'm not sure I understand the process yet, and I certainly didn't expect anything generated on a computer to be found in this dusty, disorganized, 12 foot wide gallery, but there it was. Mordecai (he uses Motke because it's shorter) Blum signed his work, Peace for Jerusalem, and you will see it in our home.

Time for a short nap in the hotel in preparation for Shabbat at the Western Wall.

No comments:

Post a Comment