Wednesay--The Golan, the Winery, and Ancient Civilization

We were so excited this morning because there was some sunshine over the Sea. For the first time from our room we could see to the other side of the Galilee. Today was to be a perfect day for visiting a winery and we were off after a quick breakfast of tea with milk, and cereal.
The Golan is filled with vineyards that began about 25 years ago. Each is a small boutique vineyard at different altitudes, in different soil, carefully selected and placed so together they grow 25 varietals of grapes. A single cooperative winery is located in the town of Katzin, the industrial center of the Golan. We had a semi-private tour in English conducted by an orthodox Jew who has been with the winery almost since its inception in 1983. They produce three labels, Yarden is its best and most expensive. Two years ago they won some prestigious awards in France and were featured among the top 100 wineries in the world in the Wine Spectator. We'll try to get some in the states to replace our traditional Maneschewitz, or to supplement it.
After the tour, we were joined in the tasting room by a bus load of young Israeli reservists, mostly male, some female. The designated "grunt" never took his AK47 off of his shoulder. We felt surprisingly safe with them there, even though they were tasting wine.
In addition to the winery we visited an olive mill. It is not producing right now, because it's winter, but they could not have been more gracious hosts. Israel's olive growers use every bit of the olive while elsewhere 80% of the olive is wasted, primarily the pit. Here, they have used the pit, finely ground, in the making of skin cremes, hand lotions, and exfolliants. We tried everything, bought some, and wanted to taste our hands the rest of the afternoon--they smelled so good.
Our next stop was an ancient excavation site, Katzim park. Following the 1967 war with Syria, the Israelis discovered an entire area of old cities as described an ancient Jewish historian. The site is only recently opened and includes an entire town that once housed about 70 families over many acres of land. The site was abandoned after the revolt against the Romans during the Talmudic period. The remants of the houses, about 500 CE, are architecturally amazing. The synagogue was two stories high. Stu sat on the stone ledges built into the walls that used to be for the congregants and felt the old rabbis dovening, discussing mishnah. The rabbis house, adjoining, boasted an upstairs and downstairs, separate rooms for the children and the married couple. In the talmud are the building codes they followed including the ruling that one cannot build a window facing into their neighbor's window for that would invade their privacy. The more we learn about our ancient Jewish traditions and teachings, the more we wonder why the world has not followed them more closely. And then we remember that we are not perfect beings, and we don't even know most of the teachings.
We spent a short time in the Golan Archeological Museum where they house many remnants from the excavated sites, some dating to the 2nd century. These include door lintels carved with menorahs and shofars, posts to hold ceilings, and various vessels.
We also learned that nothing is forbidden to discuss in the Mishna. It is not wonder as Jews we all have strong opinions, even about things we know little about.
We arrived home about 5, just in time for our afternoon nap.
Dinner in the hotel was our first Israeli Pizza--hold the pepperoni, bring on the olives!
Personal Note: We've now spent three days touring in the Golan and we are more perplexed than ever how any discussion of returning the Golan to the Syrians can be continued. First, there is evidence of multiple Jewish settlements here since pre-talmudic times. Not only settlements, but thriving communities with rich markets and trade in olives and olive oil to Syria and other trades routes. When the Romans came to conquer Judaica, it took their soldiers seven months to wipe out the town. The Romans killed four thousand and another five thousand leaped to their own deaths in the ravines, rather fall into Roman hands. Our ancestors are here, they have died here defending their birthplace and they have built. In recent memory, Bedouins moved into the area but they added little to the land. They lived in abandoned basalt stone houses, which they then abandoned in 1967. They left little in way of improved civilization whereas everyone there are Israelis you see growth, industry, love of land, caring for this world. The Israelis have created a thriving wine country that produces for local consumption and world wide export of high quality. We cannot abandon the Golan, it is home to many thousands of Jews now and forever before.
Good night dear friends. We are so blessed to have this time to spend in this wonderful country.