Our First Great Adventura-The Sea of Gallilee

Monday March 2
Today began our first full day in Israel. We are staying at the almost lovely Hotel Club Tiberias on the 5th floor, which is actually five floors below the lobby facing the Sea of Galilee. The hotel slopes downhill toward the Sea with all units and their balconies facing the water. On a clear day you could see across the Sea to the other side. But today is not a clear day. We woke to fog and drizzle, so thick we couldn’t see much past our balcony; nothing to do but roll over and sleep for another hour.
Our first stop after dressing and getting ready for the day was to get some Shekels and something to do. The hotel didn’t have any Shekels for us, so we headed into town for money and for breakfast. We parked the car but had no coins for the meter and no place to get any coins. We tested our luck, strolling away from the parked Hyundai and headed for the bank. There are many banks in Tiberias, all of the major Israeli banks are here, and then some. But, we learned that banks are not good places to exchange your money, they don’t give the highest rate of exchange. Upon advice from one of the many friendly people we have stopped to ask directions of, we headed to the cambia, exchange shop. They were correct, we exchanged $1 for 4.10 shekels. We were in business.
Another tip, and we were across the main road heading for one of the traditional Israeli breakfasts. Stu had his latte, very hot and rich, I my house brew, and both had eggs, fresh baked bread, four different cheeses, grilled egg plant, tomato and cucumber salad (which appears everywhere), more olives, crème fraisch (sp?) fresh garlic rolls, and delicious tasting tap water. The waitress spoke accented but very good English, and smiled deeply when we told her the change agent recommended her restaurant. While we waited for our breakfast Stu went outside to photograph some ruins of one of the old city walls which was now one exterior wall of the restaurant.
Breakfast done, shekels in hand, it was back to see if the car was still there. Along the route we stopped to view a 1000 year old mosque abandoned by the Muslims in 1948 when the Israeli nation was born. We were stopped by a Muslim woman in traditional headdress and her husband. His English was quite good. He asked us where we were from (I think he thought we were tourists), she smiled but never spoke. Upon learning we were Americans from Phoenix, he asked about Obama. He wanted to know if Obama would bring peace to Israel. We said, that was up to the Arabs and the Jews. He nodded, we chatted some more, and went on our way pleased to see the side-by-side harmony apparent in this couple on this very Israeli street.
We strolled down the shopping street past fresh fish markets (We have photos but haven’t quite figured out how to download and post them—Susan, send instructions.), lots of carp on display and other fish so fresh some were still gasping for water. The aromas from the local bakeries mixed with the scent of fish, ah! It smelled like break the fast. We were worried whether or not we’d be able to find the car. We’d left it in a hurry searching for a bank, breakfast, and our way back. We found it. Our first full day in Israel and we have a parking ticket! Of course, since it is all in Hebrew, and since so many people tell us that they don’t even bother to pay Arizona tickets, we have placed it in a cup of honor in the rental car. We’ll pay it on our next trip to Israel.
We planned to visit Maimonides gravesite, located in Tiberius, got as far as the archeological park and visitor center. Ignored there, we picked up a tourist map and headed outside where the sun was trying to break through the clouds. It never did quite make it, but we were fine anyway. I decided that it was easier to drive out of town than through town where there aren’t any straight streets, signs are in Hebrew, Arabic, and English, but they are small and not always located where I expect them to be. Off to a tour of the Sea of Galilee.
Tiberius is a crossroads for three major religions: Judaism, Catholicism, and Greek Orthodox. There are mosques as well, but they are not elaborate here, most Muslims having left abandoning their mosques after Israeli independence. We had map and GPS in hand but no clear destination. We stopped multiple times along the circuit, sometimes following tour buses, sometimes noting interesting signs. Our favorite stop was the Yigal Alon museum at Kibbutz Ginossar . There rests the remains of a 2000 year old boat uncovered in 1986 and put on display only a dozen years ago. No one knows for sure if this was the boat of the apostles and Jesus, a boat belonging to the fighters from the old Jewish settlement, or a simple fishing boat used by a villager to fish the abundant sea. Perhaps they do know but by keeping the question open all tours go to visit. In the two hours we toured and people watched over cups of tea we saw group from Poland, Black North African Christians, a French group, Asians, other Eastern Europeans, and us. Quite an eclectic gathering. The gift shop catered to Jews and Christians and cross over evangelists. We browsed, considered purchasing a 34” Shofar (It was actually easier to blow than the shorter Shofar I tried.) for our wonderful Gan Bamidbar shofar blower Norman, then wondered how we would bring it home. All of the Shofar were kosher, approved by a rabbi, and labeled with the gift shop stamp. Nothing made in China here.
Further north we stopped at the Greek orthodox Church at Capernaum. This is a beautifully built church, filled with gold gilded art work, at the edge of the Galilee. It was in this area that Jesus is said to have fed 5000 people with a few fish and loaves of bread. Of course, they hadn’t just returned from Yom Kippur services or he’d never have been able to satisfy them all. The priest living there keeps chickens, roosters, a donkey, several peacocks in full regalia, a gaggle of geese, and several stray cats. In fact, we’ve seen unattended cats and dogs everywhere, on the roads, at tourist stops, and in Tiberius.
The western side of the Sea of Galilee has fields of crops, but the eastern slopes are heavily rock strewn, not fit for much other than pasturing herds of cows, goats, and sheep. Fig trees coming close to harvest are abundant with fruit. There are many kibbutz around the Sea harvesting crops. Seaside resorts appear one after another and one can only imagine the summer time and the family filled water parks, hundreds of shaded picnic areas, and kilometers of Sea front for bathing. We are fortunate to be visiting in the off season. We’d rather have some drizzles than hoards of autos, crowded historical attractions, and lots of noise. Our drive was peaceful, lush and green. The Sea represents one third of Israel’s fresh water supply. It is fed by the Jordan River flowing south and multiple underground springs. A dam on the south end of the river outlet is useful for flood control when rainfall is abundant. The politics of the region is connected to its geography.
Back to Club Hotel Tiberius for a short nap, then out in the evening in search of the promenade. We never found it, but did park (legally this time) in the city center where the streets were lively with shoppers and restaurant goers. On one street the restaurants have hawkers enticing you into their establishments. Every restaurant on the street is Glatt kosher. Black clad orthodox eat primarily on one side, and orthodox and secular on the other—although this is not an official divide. We planned on a light meal, but were upped by a very persuasive waiter/owner and his charming manner. Another two hours passed eating falafel, mini salads of humus, red beets, more tomatoes and cucumbers, chopped egg plant, spicy basil and olive oil, fresh, thick pita bread, and homemade bean soup. Stu and I sat side by side so we could pass the time people watching—our favorite activity thus far.
Many people speak English and Hebrew. At the restaurant we watched young men and women eating together, noisy, cell phones in evidence, laughing, talking. At another table of 10 the more middle aged couples noisily shared wine and beer, in moderation, and the same spread of salads we had. They topped their dinner off with multiple servings of kabobs, fish, chicken, and meat. Everyone talked all the time, hands and arms gesticulated, people got up, sat down, moved around. They appeared as comfortable as if they were eating at home with family. One guest caught our eye when he got up to use the restaurant. He had a rifle slung across his back, no uniform, just the rifle. We thought of our friend Elliot and his small concealed (with permit) gun. This was a big rifle in the open. No one seemed to notice. We actually felt just fine having it there although the town has felt safe everywhere we’ve been thus far.
Home for the night, thanks to our rented GPS, and planning for another great day. Depending upon the weather, we expect to head north to the borders with Lebanon and Syria. We’ll see what tomorrow brings.
Stu and Adrienne