During these past weeks of our visit we've talked to many people, listened to opposing political views, observed, done some reading, and are coming to understand the complexity of Israel. We see the contrast between the rich development of this progressive country and its Arab neighbors. We've seen a dry desert turned green with miles of greenhouses growing vegetables for internal consumption and export while across the Jordan the same landscape remains arid. We see towering cities and the Israel national bird--the building crane, a sky line that changes each decade. And always there are contrasts-- on the one hand, but on the other hand.
The religious, a small minority, have a great influence on the country. Jewish shops close early Friday afternoon, the streets are nearly deserted except for the religious going and coming from synagogue. In the areas where we have stayed, in Tiberius and in Jerusalem, dress is modest (it's also winter and not a good time for shorts anyway). Politics dominate conversations, the country is waiting for the formation of the most recent government. There's at least 13 political parties that hold more than one seat each in the knesset. When you aren't talking politics, you can discuss religioun--how much, who should be in control, how Jewish should the country be? What happens when you continually invite the downtrodden to find refuge here, as is happening with the Sudanese and Darfur refugees who walk through Egypt seeking asylum in Israel (and working in large numbers in the hotels in Eilat). They are not Jews, but they are refugees. How can you stop their entry when you were once a seeker yourself.
We view the excavations and the multiple civilizations that have laid claim to Jerusalem, nearly all gone now but the Jews, in spite of being in exile, remain relatively unchanged. They continue to be the people of the Book, trying to find a way to live out this covenant with G-d. They make contributions to the world far in excess of their numbers, yet remain scorned by nearly every nation. They respect the multiple religions practiced around the country, even when some of those other religious sects systematically desecrated Jewish monuments and holy places.
Wherever we have gone there is evidence of soldiers, of the mandatory draft, of machine gun toting young men and women in the market place and on the buses. In the mid-70's I was in Madrid, during Franco's time, and on every street corner there were soldiers with guns. In Israel we have felt totally safe and secure, in Madrid our car was robbed and we were in fear. Israel has been a safe place for us to tour. Everyone invites you to return, to bring your friends, to make aliyah, or just visit again.
When the occasion arises we talk about our involvement with Aipac and are always greeted with a warmer welcome. Returning to Israel from Jordan, it was the Aipac photo of President Clinton, and Stu's reference, that got him through the security that had stopped his re-entry when the magnitomitor went off (Stu's has metal hips.) They recognize Aipac as an important political ally. The national Jewish charities, however, elicit a different response. In the US we are always told that Israel needs our donations, yet it is a very strong country economically. Their national budget is approximately $83,000,000,000. American charities contribute about $900,000,000. While important, the country is not dependent upon us, except as a political ally. It was suggested that the national organizations, perhaps, perpetuate this image because the organizations are dependent upon this downtrodden struggling view of Israel for their own survival. Again, food for thought and another contrast for us to consider.
All building has to be at least partially in Jerusalem stone. To the unskilled eye, we don't always know what is old and what is new. The Israelis welcome newcomers but are also upset that they cause housing prices to rise and push the Israelis further out into the surrounding towns. One of the couples we met during our wanderings with Moshe live in a Mushav, a rural community that is developing housing on land once used for agriculture in the kibbutz. The government encourages the Kibbutz to take part of their land, land they were given by the state, and develop rural housing keeping the profits to support the kibbutz.
During Jordanian occupation of Jerusalem they desecrated our synagogues, prevented Jews from visiting the holy sites, including the Western Wall. In return, once in control, Israel's government has been extremely conscientous to maintain the integrity and sovereignity of all non-Jewish religious sites. They don't do this in hopes of getting world-wide recognition, but because it is the ethical thing to do. This is another of the contrasts inherent in living the Torah.
Stu asks how Israel has affected me because I've done a considerable amount of traveling. Israel is not just a collection of old buildings and excavations, it's a living people who are all connected to me and to whom I feel emotionally and spiritually drawn. Will this feeling remain once we board our El-Al flight back to the states? I can't answer that at this time, i don't know.
We will leave Israel knowing more about the country and its people than when we arrived, but still with many questions that remain unanswered.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
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